"ttyymmnn" (ttyymmnn)
12/06/2018 at 15:24 • Filed to: None
1
29|
"ttyymmnn" (ttyymmnn)
12/06/2018 at 15:24 • Filed to: None | 1
| 29 |
I’m trying to wring a few more years out of my 03 Odyssey, so much so that I recently had the transmi$$ion rebuilt. The rebuild itself was somewhat of an odyssey, but it seems to be working fine (after a couple of attempts, long story). After I got it back, the CEL came on. Took it back to trans place, the guy said it was P1457 and that I needed to replace the gas cap. So I did (always start with the cheapest repair, right?). Two weeks on, I’ve got the P1457 again , but now I’ve also got (or always had) a P0505.
So the question for the commentariat is this: How fucked am I?
someassemblyrequired
> ttyymmnn
12/06/2018 at 15:38 |
|
Usually idle air control valve, part is cheap, don’t know about the Odyssey, but usually it’s up on top, near the intake/throttle body. Generally like 15 mins to replace (around $25-100), but since it’s an Odyssey it might be more complex.
|
ttyymmnn
> someassemblyrequired
12/06/2018 at 15:42 |
|
I did notice some odd idling. Would speed up a couple hundred rpms, there was an audible click, then it would slow back down. It’s intermittent, though. Gas cap replacement worked for about two weeks.
Gerry197
> ttyymmnn
12/06/2018 at 15:48 |
|
That light is usually cheap, some faulty valve on a sensor in the emissions system, loose or crack hose on an air pump, etc.
That’s the light that scares me the least on my cars.
|
someassemblyrequired
> ttyymmnn
12/06/2018 at 15:50 |
|
It looks like a reman is $30 on Amazon, depending on year. If it’s easy to get to, I’d swap it.
|
ttyymmnn
> Gerry197
12/06/2018 at 15:50 |
|
Perhaps impossible to know, but is this something that the transmission shop could have caused? It didn’t start until after they worked on it. Could be a coincidence, of course.
PartyPooper2012
> ttyymmnn
12/06/2018 at 15:50 |
|
I don’t know if this will help... but
Also
Also youtube.com great site with tons of information.
|
ttyymmnn
> PartyPooper2012
12/06/2018 at 15:57 |
|
Those two bits came up in my own searches. Likely culprits after 15 years and nearly 200k miles.
|
ttyymmnn
> someassemblyrequired
12/06/2018 at 15:58 |
|
Easy swap? I’m nobody’s mechanic.
|
Gerry197
> ttyymmnn
12/06/2018 at 15:59 |
|
Easily, could have pushed or disconnected an air pump tube. Do you have a OBDII reader?
You can get a Bluetooth one on Amazon for $10. I stick it in the port and use my smartphone app to read the codes which will point me in the right direction.
It also shows you cool things like actual coolant temp and turbo boost if you have one.
Edit: Actually, they are like $23 now, but this is what I bought 2 years ago and still use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
|
ttyymmnn
> Gerry197
12/06/2018 at 16:02 |
|
I do have a reader. My brother sent me a wifi one. I p ulled those codes this afternoon.
|
Gerry197
> ttyymmnn
12/06/2018 at 16:07 |
|
Cool, that should get you close. I have a pretty good indy shop as well I trust for my old cars/trucks, they can usually spot the problem quickly and fix it similar to the time and effort I would have done on my own. Though I do occasionally love to fix my own stuff.
Only issue that could be expensive is if the catalytic converter is bad and you live in a CARB state that requires an expensive CARB approved converter. That can run you some serious coin. Otherwise, it shouldn’t cost you a lot to fix a yellow dash light.
BigBlock440
> ttyymmnn
12/06/2018 at 16:09 |
|
I’m not familiar with Hondas, but coincidentally, I had to replace my IAC after replacing my transmission last year. Turned out when I shoved my transmission in place, I broke the crankshaft position sensor, which I proceeded to JB Weld back together (plastic housing broke from bracket). I’m still not sure how since everything lined up and essentially clipped back together, but I apparently epoxied it slightly crooked. So starting the truck, it wouldn’t rev past 1,800 RPM and usually wouldn’t go above idle. Everything on the internet pointed to the IAC, even the field service manual. In my gut, I knew it was probably the CPS, but I dutifully followed the FSM and Google and removed the IAC for cleaning, supposedly it comes apart, but I broke it. Cleaned it and put it back together, truck still doesn’t run, now it doesn’t even start. CPS gets replaced (ebay FTW $10 vs $100), truck starts, but now it’s idling at 2k rpm, I can just put it in drive without ever touching the gas and idle down the road at 50 mph. Back to ebay for the IAC, which I shouldn’t have touched but did anyway.
TL,DR: Only in the most roundabout way would a transmission replacement affect the IAC, but it did for me.
|
PartyPooper2012
> ttyymmnn
12/06/2018 at 16:14 |
|
seems straight forward repair. Be sure to use appropriate language when you encounter some rusty nuts and other corroded fasteners
|
ttyymmnn
> BigBlock440
12/06/2018 at 16:25 |
|
The shop took the tranny out, rebuilt it, put it back on. It was making a noise, so they took it off and worked on it. Put it back on. Was making a different noise. So they took it off a third time and finally got it right. So yeah, the tranny was removed and replaced three times. I think they cou ld have easily messed something up in the process.
|
ttyymmnn
> Gerry197
12/06/2018 at 16:26 |
|
I’ve got a mobile mechanic who is very good and not expensive. He changed out. my starter in the driveway, and I actually paid him more than he was asking because he stayed and finished the job in the dark. So I could get parts off the internet (like I did with the starter) and have him bolt them on for me.
|
ttyymmnn
> PartyPooper2012
12/06/2018 at 16:27 |
|
I’ll probably get the parts on the internet and have my mobile mechanic fix it for me. He’s good, and not expensive.
|
Gerry197
> ttyymmnn
12/06/2018 at 16:42 |
|
Nice, that’s a cool mechanic to have.
|
someassemblyrequired
> ttyymmnn
12/06/2018 at 16:57 |
|
ha it’ll either be two bolts and a connector, worst case an hour or so at the mechanic’s
|
BigBlock440
> ttyymmnn
12/06/2018 at 22:09 |
|
Sure, but in my case, the only reason it led to having to replace the IAC was because I broke a completely different sensor, the internet told me it was the IAC, and I disassembled it even though I don’t think it was meant to. Presumably somebody who does it for a living would know better, and it’s not likely you’d even have to remove or unplug the IAC for a transmission swap.
Also, my symptoms were immediate and you absolutely could not miss them. I really doubt that it was them unless there’s some other voodoo electrical problem where they didn’t push in a plug all the way and it’s causing a short, or some wires were pinched and it wasn’t affecting the pinched sensor for some reason (electrical is mostly voodoo to me).
You could start with just checking all the plugs, especially the IAC, if they all look good, just swap the IAC (mine was cheap from Amazon, but it took like 2 months to get). If a new IAC fixes it, it probably wasn’t the shop.
|
ttyymmnn
> BigBlock440
12/06/2018 at 22:35 |
|
Honestly, I’m more concerned with the trans shop causing the 1457 evap code. I’m wondering if they didn’t get a hose back on right, cracked a hose, crimped a hose, etc. Based on some funky idling I’ve experienced, I think yo are correct that it’s the IAC.
facw
> PartyPooper2012
12/07/2018 at 03:18 |
|
Nice thing about Texas is that rust didn’t seem to be much of a problem.
brianbrannon
> ttyymmnn
12/07/2018 at 12:04 |
|
They most likely left the evap
hose loose after dropping the subframe I think it’s on the passenger side rear subframe area. Black plastic hose with a rubber end
|
ttyymmnn
> brianbrannon
12/07/2018 at 12:12 |
|
Thanks. I’ll take a look once it stops raining.
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> ttyymmnn
12/07/2018 at 12:33 |
|
Too bad your brother lives so far away. You could get it done for the cost of a steak.
user314
> ttyymmnn
12/07/2018 at 13:00 |
|
|
ttyymmnn
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
12/07/2018 at 14:07 |
|
Indeed.
|
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> ttyymmnn
12/07/2018 at 15:25 |
|
Or less. There’s a reply about a vacuum hose or something being left loose down by the crossmember and such a thing was the first idea I had about this. You might even pop into the transmission shop and ask them to look at it for you.
|
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> ttyymmnn
12/11/2018 at 09:25 |
|
Any developments on this?
|
ttyymmnn
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
12/11/2018 at 09:26 |
|
Nope. Just driving it. Taking it to my Honda guy on Sunday. I’ll know more on Monday.